For Labor Day, I gave myself a whole week off work. And boy, did it feel good. Back-to-back, I had family and friends fly out to visit me in my new Montana home. It was the first time my loved ones came out, so I wanted to squeeze in as much as possible.
My sister Emily, her boyfriend Derrick, and my brother Zach arrived at the beginning of the week, and we kicked off the fun with a trip to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. Here’s how we explored the parks in two days!
📌 Day 1 (Billings → Cody → Yellowstone → Flagg Ranch)
🥞 Breakfast in Cody at Annie’s Soda Saloon
🏨 Visit the historic Irma Hotel
🚗 Enter Yellowstone via the East Entrance
🌊 Stop at Yellowstone Lake
🐃 Wildlife spotting in Hayden Valley
🌄 View the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone (Artist Point)
🌋 Explore the Artist Paint Pots
🌈 See the Grand Prismatic Spring (Midway Geyser Basin)
⏱️ Catch an eruption at Old Faithful + picnic
🛶 Overnight stay at Headwaters Lodge (Flagg Ranch)
8:30 a.m. — Depart Billings
We pulled out of Billings and headed south toward Cody, Wyoming. Throughout the drive, I kept hearing comments like, “This looks like Mars,” or “This looks like Minecraft.” I laughed because the first time I drove that stretch of highway, I thought the same thing. From an East Coast perspective, the landscape truly appears otherworldly.
9:30 a.m. — Breakfast in Cody
In Cody, we made a breakfast stop at Annie’s Soda Saloon. Coffee, a breakfast burrito, and a huckleberry pancake later, we were fueled up and ready to go. (Funny enough, none of us actually ordered a soda, but next time I’ll have to give it a try.) Before hitting the road again, we walked over to the Irma Hotel, which Buffalo Bill Cody built for his daughter, Irma, back in 1902. We browsed through the gift shops, and I found the most unique collection of cowboy boots made by bootmaker Scott Wayne Emmerich. Come to find out, he’s made boots for stars like Kevin Costner, Reba McEntire, Arnold Schwarzenegger, and more! I’ve decided that one day, I’d like a pair too, but I’ll need to start saving.
10:30 a.m. — Enter Yellowstone via East Entrance
Back in the car, we cruised past Cody, through Buffalo Bill State Park, and entered Yellowstone via the East Entrance. That drive alone was worth the trip. We wound along the North Fork of the Shoshone River, with cliffs on one side and rushing water on the other, before climbing into the park.
And this was only 10 a.m.
11:00 a.m. — Yellowstone Lake
When we entered the park, we grabbed a map (remember, no cellphone service in the park) and made our way south to Yellowstone Lake. We found a wooded path that led down to the water. The air smelled of pine, and the lake looked as vast as an ocean. Everything felt still, and the temperature was just right. We walked along the beach, and I realized it was the first time in months that my siblings and I were all together. I squeezed them in close before we made our way back to the car.
12:00 p.m. — Hayden Valley
A beef stick and some trail mix later, and we were already at our next stop: Hayden Valley. It was everything we could’ve hoped for. There were wide-open fields with buffalo, steam vents rose in the distance, and herds roamed right near the car. We pulled over to watch while other tourists wandered WAY too close. (PSA, don’t be THAT tourist!)
1:00 p.m. — Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Our next big highlight was the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. At Artist Point, we stood staring at the Lower Falls thundering into the canyon. The air smelled faintly of sulphur, and the rock walls glowed with gold and rust, painting a yellow hue on our faces as we looked down. We hiked to a lower viewpoint (my brother Zach told us we HAD to), then back up again. I was definitely a little winded, but it was SO worth it. I mean, look at how beautiful these views were!
2:30 p.m. — Artist Paint Pots
It was at Artist Paint Pots, where I remembered that Yellowstone sits atop one of the largest active volcanic systems in the world. Bubbling mud and steam came rushing up from the ground. We were a little chilly beforehand, but standing around the mud pits warmed us right up.
3:30 p.m. — Grand Prismatic Spring
Next up was Grand Prismatic Spring at Midway Geyser Basin. Parking was tricky, but we lucked out and found a spot right away. The spring was stunning, with a deep blue center and fiery orange edges. We stood there for a while, letting the steam drift around us. It’s no wonder this is one of the most popular stops in the park!
5:30 p.m. — Old Faithful + Picnic
We only waited about five minutes before Old Faithful erupted, and it was every bit as incredible as we hoped. After the crowds thinned, we spread out a picnic with our little stash of tinned fish, crackers, cheese, and jam. Sitting there together, we couldn’t help but look around at each other and realize just how perfect the day felt.
7:00 p.m. — Headwaters Lodge at Flagg Ranch
As the light began to fade, we drove south, leaving Yellowstone behind for the night. We pulled into Headwaters Lodge at Flagg Ranch and carried our bags into a cabin tucked among the trees. I chose this spot because it sits right between Yellowstone and Grand Teton, and it was exactly what we needed — simple, clean, and cozy. The cool mountain air followed us inside as we squeezed into the cabin, shared highlights from the day, and drifted off to sleep almost instantly.
📌 Day 2 (Flagg Ranch → Jackson Lake → Lamar Valley → Beartooth Pass → Cooke City →Red Lodge → Billings)
🍳 Breakfast at Headwaters Lodge
🏔️ Stop at Jackson Lake (Grand Teton)
🪨 Visit the Roosevelt Arch
🐻 Wildlife viewing in Lamar Valley
🏘️ Stretch break in Cooke City
🛣️ Scenic drive over the Beartooth Pass
🥩 Dinner at Carbon County Steakhouse (Red Lodge, MT)
🏡 Return to Billings
7:00 a.m. — Headwaters Lodge
I was the first one awake and stepped outside without wasting a second. I sank into a rocking chair on the porch and watched a squirrel dart around, gathering nuts and dropping them into a small pile. Rain tapped out a gentle tune, and I rocked to its rhythm. It’s safe to say I reached my “zen.”
Soon everyone else woke up and we wandered over to the lodge for breakfast. I ordered biscuits and gravy with a chai latte—exactly what I needed after the miles from the day before. After turning in the keys, we packed up and hit the road again.
9:00 a.m. — Jackson Lake
From Flagg Ranch it’s a quick 20-minute drive to Jackson Lake. Unfortunately, fog kept the Tetons completely hidden. Disappointing, but that’s the gamble with mountain weather. If you’re squeezing the two parks into one trip, I’d still recommend stopping. You might get luckier than we did.
2:00 p.m. — Roosevelt Arch + Lamar Valley
Back on the road, we headed north, stopping at the stone Roosevelt Arch at the park’s north entrance before continuing into Lamar Valley. Even in the drizzle, it was alive. Herds of Buffalo dotted the landscape and rolling meadows stretched out on both sides of the road. We pulled over again and again to soak in the beauty and the wildlife. And in the distance, we even saw a grizzly bear and a few antelope!
3:00 p.m. — Cooke City
Just outside the northeast entrance, we rolled into Cooke City, a small mountain town renowned for its snowmobiling in the winter and its proximity to the park. We stretched our legs for a bit, stopped in a pub for a quick refreshment, and browsed souvenirs at the trading post. Fun fact: according to the 2020 census, Cooke City had a population of just 77 people. The town also sits at an elevation of 7,572 feet, making it one of the highest towns in the state of Montana.
4:00 p.m. — Beartooth Pass
By late afternoon, it was time to head east over the Beartooth Pass. That drive is not for the faint of heart. Tight switchbacks, dramatic drop-offs, and high alpine stretches make the road feel like it floats in the sky. I looked back to see my sister gripping the door handle, and I remembered doing the same the first time I drove the pass. But the views — the alpine lakes, the snow patches (even in late August) — made every nerve worth it.
Note: Be sure to stop at the Top of the World Store for a quick stretch and some fun souvenirs! Also, be sure to pull over at the summit (you should see a turnoff) and at Vista Point (further down the pass, before the final switchbacks to the bottom). This is a great place to walk out and feel like you’re standing right in the middle of the mountains. Plus, there are lots of cute chipmunks and critters here — they love sunflower seeds!
6:00 p.m. — Dinner in Red Lodge
We finally rolled down into Red Lodge and capped the night with dinner at Carbon County Steakhouse. We all ordered a hand-cut steak. I opted for a medium-rare tenderloin accompanied by mashed potatoes, seasonal vegetables, and a side of cowboy sauce (so good—definitely get the sauce).
8:00 p.m. — Return to Billings
Sharing a meal with people I love was the perfect way to wrap up the two-day itinerary. After dinner, we made the hour-long drive back to Billings with full bellies and memories that we will hold close forever.
With love,
Abby Paige